Living with the Padma: A Journey Through Riverine Bangladesh

Discover the timeless bond between the Padma River and the people living along its banks. Explore their livelihoods, struggles, and cultural heritage in riverine Bangladesh.

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Living with the Padma: A Journey Through Riverine Bangladesh

The Padma River, the longest river in riverine Bangladesh, flows with vast expanses and an immense water reserve, shaping the Bengal Delta. Originating from the Gangotri Glacier in the Himalayas, the upstream Ganges enters Bangladesh and continues its journey as the Padma, flowing from the northwest to the southeast through the heart of the country.

According to the National River Protection Commission, the Padma River flows through 12 districts, covering approximately 341 kilometers. This major waterway serves as a vital route for various types of vessels traveling to different destinations. One of the most well-known ferry terminals along the Padma is the Paturia Ferry Ghat, where thousands of vehicles cross daily, connecting the southwestern region of the country to other parts.

Paturia-Daulatdia

From Paturia Ferry Ghat, several ferries, including the Bir Shreshtha Jahangir, operate daily on the Paturia-Daulatdia route, serving as a vital connection. These ferries help people cross the river and reach around 21 southwestern districts that are separated by the Padma. Since the Padma is a wide and fast-flowing river, building bridges at every point is not feasible.

That’s why the Paturia-Daulatdia Ferry Ghat plays a crucial role in maintaining road connectivity between the two banks. Passengers on the ferry enjoy the majestic beauty of the Padma River, spending their time savoring snacks like jhalmuri and other local delicacies.

The depth of the Padma varies with the seasons—around 100 meters in winter and twice as deep during the monsoon. The river carries approximately 1.5 million cubic meters of water per second in the rainy season, while in winter, the flow reduces to 450,000 cubic meters per second.

The Daulatdia Ferry Ghat is located about three kilometers from Paturia and is a well-known terminal situated in the Goalanda Upazila of Rajbari District.

On the banks of the Padma River in Rajbari, about 0.75 kilometers from Daulatdia, lies the historic Goalanda Ghat. Although its prominence has faded over time, this ghat holds great historical significance. When it began operations in 1871, passengers would board paddle steamers from here to Narayanganj and travel to Kolkata via the East Bengal Express train.

The East Bengal Express used to travel directly from Sealdah Station in Kolkata to Goalanda, passing through Ranaghat, Gede, Darshana, and Jagati. Back then, passengers from Kolkata could take a train to Goalanda, then board a steamer to Narayanganj, seamlessly connecting these two travel services with a single ticket.

From Narayanganj, travelers could reach Dhaka by train, reducing the journey time from three days to just 17 hours. Though Goalanda has lost its former importance over time, it still remains a cherished memory for many.

On the Padma River, the sight of boats reveals the livelihoods of river-dependent people. Fishing boats, scattered across the water, easily catch the eye, showcasing the daily life of local fishermen.

Fishing at Padma

As part of their fishing preparations, fishermen spend their free time repairing old nets or sometimes making new ones. After nets, their boats are the most essential tool. For fishing communities, boats serve as temporary homes, providing shelter on the river.

Along the sandbars of the Padma, one can often see the floating lives of fishermen, who spend days and nights on the water in pursuit of fish. They cook on the boat, eat on the boat, and continue their daily routines there. After a meal, some enjoy a cup of tea, while others chew betel leaf with areca nut for relaxation.

Fishing is a physically demanding job. The lives of Padma-dependent fishermen were beautifully portrayed by Manik Bandopadhyay in his timeless novel Padma Nadir Majhi.

For professional fishermen, fishing nets are not only large but also quite heavy, requiring transportation support to carry them. Despite the decline in fish population for various reasons, the mighty Padma River remains one of the major sources of fish in the country.

Fishermen cast large nets across vast areas from their boats to catch fish. Depending on the situation, they also pull the nets in a semicircle to bring in the catch. A significant portion of the country’s inland fish supply comes from these Padma fishermen.

And there it is—their most prized catch, the Hilsa! Among the many species found in the Padma, the king of fish is undoubtedly the Hilsa. The unique taste of Padma’s Hilsa, Boal, and Pangas is widely praised. Though the quantity has decreased, the taste and quality remain unchanged.

The Mawa Fish Market in Louhajang, Munshiganj, located on the banks of the Padma, is a well-known hub for Hilsa trading.

Fish Market Near Padma

The Hilsa fish, freshly caught from the Padma River, is quickly brought to the local fish markets along its banks. This ensures that the Hilsa here is always fresh and flavorful.

Along with Hilsa, a variety of other fish such as Rui, Katla, Boal, Chital, Ayer, and Baghair are also sold in large quantities at these markets. The auction houses are filled with the loud calls of traders and fast-paced transactions.

From 6 AM to around 10 or 11 AM, the fish are sold to retail vendors, who then distribute them to different parts of the country.

Along with large fish, the markets along the Padma River also have a good supply of small fish. These riverbank fish markets are the perfect place for both locals and traders to buy fresh fish at competitive prices.

Fishermen living by the Padma are deeply dependent on the river for fishing, production, marketing, and livelihood. The Padma continuously deposits silt, forming new landmasses known as chars. These chars, shaped by the river’s flow and sedimentation, are classified as bending chars, side chars, or middle chars, depending on their formation.

The lush green fields of settled chars look like a beautifully woven Nakshi Kantha (traditional embroidered quilt). The fertile land of these chars, enriched by the river’s water and silt, produces a variety of crops in abundance.

For farmers, a significant part of their day is spent tending to their crops. Among the most widely grown crops in the char areas, tomatoes hold the top spot.

Throughout the year, farmers along the Padma River cultivate rice, wheat, lentils, maize, and seasonal vegetables in different cycles. By meeting the growing demand for diverse crops in various seasons, the millions of farmers in these riverbank communities play a vital role in ensuring the country’s food supply.

The vast fields of mustard, spreading their Yellow and green beauty, are a testament to the fertility of the Padma River’s water and silt.

During the dry season, the barren lands along the Padma turn into grazing fields, attracting cattle and livestock drawn by the abundance of grass, vines, and shrubs.

However, the formation of chars in the Padma River is not entirely natural—some human activities also contribute to this change. One such harmful practice is setting up bamboo enclosures in the river to illegally catch fish with nets. This not only reduces the river’s depth and flow, leading to char formation, but also negatively impacts fish populations.

Due to the reduced depth of the river, the movement of Hilsa fish returning from the sea has decreased in some areas. The abundance of other fish has also diminished, making it harder for fishermen to catch fish except during the peak season.

The privilege of seeing live Hilsa now belongs only to the fishermen. Fishermen in the Padma River use a variety of nets and techniques to catch fish. One such method involves using long and round bamboo traps, which are tied with ropes and placed at specific distances in the river to catch fish.

The Padma River, while generous in providing, is equally cruel when it comes to erosion. Over the past 55 years, this aggressive river has claimed 66,000 hectares of land from its own created settlements. Despite destroying many landmarks, the river shows no signs of slowing down. For this reason, the Padma is often called the “destroyer” or “Kritinasha” (the one who destroys creation).

The deep connection between the Padma River and the people living along its banks is best understood when you visit its ghats. Local residents, through their daily interactions with the river, have built a life dependent on its flow, in the villages scattered along the banks. In the intimate embrace of nature, each village along the Padma is beautifully organized, offering a peaceful and charming life.

Life

In the past, rice threshing was done by cattle walking over the grain, but now motorized machines have taken their place. The traditional riverine lifestyle of rural Bengal along the Padma River is still alive and well. Thanks to the rice grown in the fields, there is no shortage of straw in most homes. With ample fodder available, the tradition of raising cattle continues in almost every household. In addition to cows and goats, ducks, chickens, and pigeons are commonly raised in the area.

In the past, the Padma River provided water for household needs, but today, hand pumps are used.

Some homes along the Padma River are quite impressive in appearance. The lifestyle here, built with love and care, continues to shine through the generations. As the day progresses, the housewives’ activities become more demanding. While the men are busy working in the fields or fishing in the river, the women are engaged in cooking and household chores.

Most of what the people of Padma’s banks need for cooking is generously provided by the river. During the rainy season, around 2,000 millimeters of rainfall is recorded in the Padma region. The soft rain brings a refreshing rhythm and drenches everything, giving the landscape a renewed vibrancy. As the seasons change, the natural beauty also transforms, and along with it, the daily lives of the people living along the Padma subtly shift.

Raining at Padma River

The rain brings lazy hours to every home. The veranda fills up with gatherings as the women, while chewing betel leaves, share delightful stories.

Cow dung is used to make cow-dung cakes, which are dried in the sun. Although the rain disrupts daily life, life along the Padma River flows at its own pace.

After the rain, herons are busy fishing in the newly filled ponds, with local children joining in. Growing up immersed in the biodiversity of the area, these children and teenagers are also doing well in their studies. The Padma River is not only the beloved river of the paharias (tribals) but also of many birds like the kingfisher.

To the north of the Padma River, lies the famous city of Rajshahi, a cultural hub. To the southwest of the city, a 12 km long embankment called the I Barriage protects Rajshahi from the erosion caused by the river, and it also serves as a beautiful recreational spot for the residents. Visitors to this open recreation center enjoy unwinding by the Padma River.

The Padma River is famous for its two major bridges: Hardinge Bridge to the left and Lalon Bridge to the right. The Lalon Bridge, named after the famous Baul singer Lalon Shah, is the third largest bridge in the country. The Hardinge Bridge, connecting Pabna to Kushtia, is the oldest railway bridge in Bangladesh.

Tagore’s Kuthi Bari

The Hardinge Bridge, built in 1912 and named after the British Viceroy Lord Hardinge, has been in operation for rail traffic since March 4, 1915. Located on the Padma River in Kumarkhali, Kushtia, is the famous Rabindranath Tagore’s Kuthi Bari (mansion). Spanning over 33 bighas of land, it is adorned with trees, gardens, flowers, and a beautiful mansion.

This 17-room mansion is now known as the Tagore Museum. Between 1891 and 1901, the poet Rabindranath Tagore regularly stayed here to manage his zamindari (landlord ship) and also composed several of his literary works.

For Rabindranath Tagore, Shilaidah, kissed by the Padma River, was a sacred place of literary devotion. During his travels by land, he used two types of palkis (palanquins)—one with 8 bearers and the other with 16 bearers. On the second floor of his mansion, there were two speed boats from that time, Chanchala and Chapla. The Kuthi Bari‘s pond and the preserved Bajra boat remind one of Rabindranath’s deep connection to the Padma.

He often sailed across the river, either in a boat or Bajra, spending days discovering the beauty, colors, and forms of the Padma. At Goalanda, where the Padma meets the Yamuna, is the confluence of these mighty rivers. After originating from the Himalayas, the rivers Ganges and Brahmaputra flow in opposite directions, eventually meeting and changing names to become Padma and Yamuna as they descend from the highlands to the plains.

Padma Bridge

In the joy of reuniting with a lost friend, the two rivers embraced each other at the confluence of Aricha and Goalanda. The Padma, having traveled almost two-thirds of its way from the upstream, meets the Yamuna here, and together, they complete the last third of the journey downstream.

The Padma River, ranking second in the world’s list of most turbulent rivers, follows only the Amazon. Due to its strong currents, the Amazon has no bridges. Similarly, building a bridge over the Padma was once a challenging task, but despite this obstacle, Bangladesh overcame the challenge and constructed the country’s longest bridge, the Padma Bridge.

This 6.5 km long, multi-functional bridge features two layers—one for road traffic and the other for railways. It now connects the southwestern part of the country with the northeastern region, enhancing connectivity and opening up new opportunities for growth and development.

After the inauguration of the Padma Bridge, the once bustling Mawa Ferry Terminal has lost its utility and now lies abandoned. Located 9 kilometers north of Mawa, in Munshiganj, is the famous Bhagyakul Ghat. Right behind the ghat is the renowned Bhagyakul Market, where fresh vegetables, various daily necessities, and the finest produce from the fields of Padma’s banks are available on Saturdays and Tuesdays.

One of the greatest attractions of Bhagyakul is its famous sweet, the Bhagyakul Misty. This traditional sweet from Padma’s banks has earned its reputation for unmatched taste and quality, making it famous across the region.

Conclution

The water brought from the confluence of the Padma and Jamuna rivers in Goyland is eventually deposited into the Meghna at Chandpur. According to river studies, the lower Meghna is essentially an extension of the Padma River itself. The water travels through the Meghna and eventually reaches the Bay of Bengal. As evening falls, the birds of the Padma’s banks return to their nests, and the soft light of the setting sun illuminates the surroundings. With the changing of the day, the many forms of the Padma are revealed. Whether in the monsoon or winter, the beauty of the Padma is endless, ever enchanting in its serene attire.