By Train from Dhaka to Sylhet : An Unforgettable Thrilling Adventure

Dhaka to Sylhet Rail Ways

Rolling along the tracks is one of the four intercity trains from Dhaka to Sylhet, the “Parabat Express.“ The concrete city of Dhaka is slowly becoming even more overwhelmed with concrete, so whenever I get the chance, I escape to the surroundings. Many say that the Dhaka-Sylhet railway route is the most beautiful railway path in Bangladesh.

We call car drivers “drivers,” airplane pilots “pilots,” and ship captains “captains,” but do you know what we call the train driver? _ Loco Master.

Our first journey stop is at the Airport Station, 18 kilometers from Kamalapur. Many passengers are standing, waiting for the Parabat Express. As soon as the train arrives, there’s a rush, people hurrying to get on and off – a familiar scene at any station. For those traveling to Dhaka’s Shahjalal International Airport, this railway station comes in quite handy. The train, loaded with passengers, honks and speeds away again. The train’s horn, however, serves many purposes. The loco master blows the horn to give instructions or send a warning. Trains began their construction and operations in England.

The first train in the world started running 198 years ago, and in Bangladesh, it began 161 years ago. Trains usually have the words “Up” or “Down” in their names. “Up” refers to a train going out from the center, and “Down” refers to a train returning to the center. A train’s coach and bogie are not the same thing. A bogie includes everything with wheels and carries the weight of the upper structure, while the coach refers to the upper part where passengers sit with their chairs.

For those of us living in the city, it’s not so easy to find the lush greenery of nature.

History Of Dhaka to Sylhet Rail Ways

Seeing the vast greenery from the train, that feeling of longing diminishes considerably. We pass over the Shitalakshya River. After crossing the river, we reach the Ghoghashal Fag station. The main station is another two kilometers away, but Haji Mohammad Abu Said, the local zamindar and British government magistrate, refused to travel that far. On the days he was heading to Dhaka, the train would wait for him by the riverbank.

He would arrive from home in a six-bearer palanquin. Upon boarding the train, he would sit in his reserved compartment. Due to his influence, in 1914, the British railway authorities established the Ghoghashal Fag station. This was the country’s first double-decker station. Since there was no halt, the Parabat Express never stopped here. In railway terms, this is called a “through pass.”

Bangladesh’s beauty and warmth can be fully appreciated by simply looking out the window of a train. The next stop on this journey, 40 kilometers from Ghoghashal, is Bhairab Bazar Station. On the Dhaka-Sylhet railway, the Parabat Express halts at three junctions, with Bhairab being the first. A junction is where the main railway line, loop line, crossover joint, and pacing points converge. Ahead lies the historic railway bridge, named after King George VI and Sher-e-Bangla A. K. Fazlul Huq, the Ashuganj-Bhairab railway bridge. This bridge has three parallel structures: a road bridge and two railway bridges, standing as witnesses to many historical changes.

It’s truly remarkable to cross the Meghna River on a bridge built during the British era. This steel bridge is nearly 88 years old. Due to its age, the train moves slowly across it. The bridge was inaugurated twice by two prime ministers: first in 1937 by A. K. Fazlul Haque, and again in 1973 by Sheikh Mujib. Riding the train, one can’t help but remember Satyajit Ray‘s timeless movie Pather Panchali. As the train rushes through the fields, Apu and Durga run alongside, watching it go. The bond between the train and rural Bengal is truly captivating.

Train Ticket Examiner (TTE)

On the way from Dhaka to Sylhet, there are nine districts to pass through. Having already left Gazipur, Narsingdi, and Kishoreganj behind, the next ones are Brahmanbaria, followed by Habiganj and Moulvibazar. Once aboard the train, you’re bound to meet the TTE (Train Ticket Examiner), who checks if passengers have valid tickets.

Thanks to digital technology, there’s no need to stand in line to buy tickets anymore. You can now collect your train tickets online. On the Dhaka-Sylhet railway route, the meter-gauge line typically reaches speeds of 45 to 50 km/h. Once the dual gauge project is completed, the train will be able to run at even higher speeds.

This will reduce travel time. On this moving train, you can stop it anytime if you wish. Pulling the stop chain in the middle of the coach will make the train halt. However, the chain should only be pulled for safety, health, or emergency reasons. Pulling it unnecessarily or for trivial reasons may result in jail time or fines.

The train has a separate dining coach. When you place an order, the dining staff will serve your meal. You can even choose to eat in your seat if you prefer. The Parabat runs with 16 green coaches. These coaches, made in Indonesia, are designed for meter-gauge tracks. The train is now at the Akhaura Azampur Railway Station, which was built in 1896.

Alongside passengers, Bangladesh Railway also transports goods. Freight trains often carry commercial products, and sometimes they haul oil tankers. The train has reached Noyapara station, 40 kilometers from Azampur, where the 9:30 AM passengers are waiting.

Shaistaganj Station

In the last three hours, the train has covered approximately 183 kilometers. Although the journey stop is over, Parabat is still halted to allow the down train to pass. This system is in place to ensure smooth operation of multiple trains on the same railway line. With the track now clear, the Parabat train is moving forward along the cleared line, thanks to the engineering technique known as “crossover turnout.” The next destination is Shaistaganj.

When a station connects to three different destinations, it is no longer just a station; it becomes a junction. From Shaistaganj, four railway lines spread out in different directions, with 23 stations along the way. This makes Shaistaganj a renowned junction.

On the train, there is a Train In-charge whose responsibility is total monitoring, such as ensuring passengers’ comfort, addressing technical issues, and providing first aid if needed.

Suddenly, the scenery along the railway tracks starts changing. The train has now begun to race through rows of tea gardens, hills, and dense forests on its way to Sylhet. It truly feels amazing. Now, I can understand why everyone calls the Dhaka-Sylhet route the most beautiful railway route. Tea gardens are abundant on the Dhaka-Habiganj-Sylhet route, and during this journey, you will have plenty of opportunities to enjoy the sight of these scenic tea plantations.

The Green Tea Valley 

The tea producers had long been demanding a railway line, and to fulfill this demand, the Assam Bengal Railway Company of British India gradually established several railway routes, one of which is the Dhaka-Sylhet line. “Parabat” means “dove,” symbolizing the free flight across the green valley. The tea gardens and Parabat are a perfect match, both bathed in greenery.

Parabat Express

The train has 16 coaches, with seating for nearly 700 passengers. The seats are of four types: Shobhan Chair, Snigdha, First Class, and AC Seats. There are also sleeper coaches or cabin coaches available. In the AC or non-AC sleeper coaches, passengers can sleep overnight. The fare for a cabin coach is higher, but it offers more comfort.

The Parabat Express has now entered Shreemangal. Over 110 years ago, Shreemangal Railway Station was initially used only for transporting tea and goods. Gradually, passenger services were introduced.

Shreemangal – The Capital of Tea

Leaving Shreemangal behind, the Parabat Express is moving forward. In just a few moments, it will enter the famous Rainforest of Lawachara, where it will weave its way through the dense forest, taking on the form of a true python. Just as a python belongs in the forest, Parabat belongs in Lawachara’s woods. This monsoon forest receives abundant rainfall, so thick are the trees that sometimes not a single ray of sunlight touches the ground.

Outside the train, the forest is home to nearly 30 species of wild animals, 167 species of plants, and 246 species of birds, creating a wonderful mixed evergreen forest.

Around the World in 80 Days

Riding the train and witnessing the beauty of the Safari Park is a rare and unique experience. The railway track through this forest reminds one of Jules Verne’s writings. “Around the World in 80 Days,” which won five Oscars in 1956, was shot across 13 countries at 114 locations, one of which was Lawachara. Can you imagine how the forest and trains looked back then? Search online, and you’ll find that very movie.

The scene was something like this: “The train was running on this very railway line. A herd of elephants appeared on the tracks, causing the driver to stop the train. Curious to know what was happening, the hero, David Niven, got off the train. He saw that a ‘suttee’ was taking place in the nearby village. The hero rushed to the scene and saved the girl.”

These very scenes were filmed in the Lawachara forest 67 years ago. Just thinking about it is astonishing. Now, after leaving Lawachara, the train is at the Bhanu ghat Railway Station. It only took about 5 minutes to travel from the forest to here. The entire Dhaka-Sylhet railway line is dotted with almost fifty stations.

You’ve probably noticed by now, haven’t you? The Parabat Express doesn’t stop at every station. To reach its destination quickly, it only halts at the major stations. The train’s journey is like the shifting frames of a movie. The scenery changes constantly—sometimes dry, barren, and lifeless, and at other times lush, fresh, and vibrant.

The train has now stopped at the Kulaura Railway Junction. From Kulaura, three tracks stretch in different directions, and we are heading northeast towards Sylhet. It’s 11:30 AM. After a short break, the train is back on its way to Sylhet, with just 48 kilometers left to go.

The train is now crossing through Fenchuganj, the smallest upazila of Sylhet. Right ahead is the Maijgaon Station, the smallest station on the route before reaching Sylhet. This is the last stop for Parabat Express, after which there will be no more halts. Despite the continuous improvements in road transport, the importance of railways remains undiminished. Just like in Bangladesh, rail travel around the world is considered one of the safest, most affordable, and comfortable modes of transportation.

From Kulaura to Maijgaon, it’s about 23 kilometers, and it takes around 30 minutes to reach. The station is currently undergoing renovations. Well, it’s been quite a journey since 1915, hasn’t it? The age is certainly noticeable!

Conclusion

The train crosses the Kushiyara River on a bridge, and it’s the perfect moment to take in the beauty of the river. Bangladesh’s railway network is divided into two regions—Eastern and Western. The Dhaka-Sylhet route is part of the Eastern region. Finally, we’ve arrived at the vibrant heart of Sylhet, the spiritual capital. This is the Sylhet Railway Station, modeled after Dhaka’s Kamalapur Railway Station. Established in 1915, the station boasts five platforms. Every day, thousands of passengers travel from Dhaka, Chattogram, and Kulaura through Sylhet Station. The journey from Dhaka to Sylhet takes around 7 hours, covering a distance of 339 kilometers. It’s been a truly enjoyable journey.